Prep: Deep clean, dry thoroughly, sand with 150- then 180-grit sandpaper and wipe off dust.You may increase your chances of success by abrading the surface. Laminate: Milk Paint MAY adhere to laminate with a bonding primer however, we cannot guarantee it. Metal: General Finishes Milk Paint is engineered for wood surfaces, but may adhere to metal, such as aluminum or steel, if a metal primer is applied first. NOTE: Do not tint Stain Blocker or use Stain Blocker on projects that will be stored outdoors.Īlways test for adhesion on a hidden area of your project before getting started. Metal requires a primer made specifically for metal. Primer may improve adhesion over laminate and prevent bleed-through from MDF. Non-Wood Surfaces may be able to take paint if primed first.Dark Paint Colors Over Sealed Surfaces: To improve coverage when applying darker colors such as Coastal Blue, Dark Chocolate, or Queenstown Gray, prime with a coat of Lamp Black.You are better off using a dark paint on pine. If you decide to paint over them, apply 3 coats of Stain Blocker over the areas with knots first however, we cannot guarantee against rosin bleed-through. Knots in Wood contain rosin (sap) and are dense, making paint adhesion a challenge. Pine knots are especially difficult to cover with white or light paints.Sealed Surface Bleed-Through may be caused by previous stains or aniline dyes, surface contamination, and incompatibility between brands. SEALED SURFACE : Before using white & light-colored paints, apply 2 coats of GF Stain Blocker.Oak, pine, mahogany and douglas fir are particularly prone to bleed-through. Raw Wood Tannin Bleed-Through is unpredictable yellowing can appear immediately or months later with seasonal temperature changes. RAW WOOD: Before using white & light-colored paints, apply 2 coats of GF Stain Blocker or GF White Undercoat.Watch Stain Blocker Product Overview video Here However, 2 coats of General Finishes Stain Blocker may be necessary in the following circumstances, especially when using WHITE OR LIGHT-COLORED PAINTS. Mineral spirits can be used when working with water-based products, but only if the surface is thoroughly rinsed and allowed to dry for 72 hours.Ī base coat of primer is not required to use General Finishes Milk Paint.Sand lightly with a fine-grade (220-320) foam sanding pad.Īlternative Cleaning Solutions For Existing Finishes (Not as aggressive or effective as denatured alcohol requires rinsing.).Scrub clean with a Scotch Brite™ pad and a 50:50 mix of denatured alcohol and water.Scrub clean with a detergent, such as Spic and Span or Dawn, using a Scotch Brite™ pad.
MILK PAINT HOW TO
See our video: How to Power Prep Existing High Use Finishes for Stain or Paint Power Prep Cleaning Highly Used Existing Finishes Sand lightly with a fine-grade (220-320) foam sanding sponge or 400-grit sandpaper.If your project requires a deeper cleaning, see Power Prep Cleaning Highly Used Existing Finishes below. Avoid cleaning with products containing phosphates (salt), which can linger in the substrate and produce a white haze. Scuff clean with a Scotch Brite™ pad or maroon synthetic steel wool and a 50:50 mix of denatured alcohol and water.See our video: How to Prepare Existing Finishes Let dry completely before applying General Finishes product.įor high-use areas with heavy grime build-up and oil from hands, give your project a deeper cleaning.Remove dust with a vacuum, compressed air, an oil-free tack cloth or a water-dampened rag.Do not use steel wool with water-based finishes the particles will get trapped in the finish and rust. Do not over-sand with fine-grit sandpapers this will close and seal the wood grain, preventing ideal color absorption. Sanding schedule: 120-grit sandpaper followed by 150-grit.If you skip this critical step, your finish may fail. Before applying paint, all raw wood projects require preparation sanding, and all existing finishes require prep cleaning and sanding.
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